FAQ
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How is the seal made by the metal ferrule?
A: As the outer nuts are tightened with wrenches, internal mechanism applies pressure on the metal ferrule, forcing the ferrules onto the tube and/or valves, and creating a permanent indentation that will hold up to average pressure of 1700 psi.
Q: What is the function of the elastomeric rings that is part of the fitting?
A: The elastomeric rings are for vibration dampening and keeping environmental elements such as dust and moisture out. They do NOT seal the refrigerant lines. For our internal and third-party testing, the tests are always conducted without the elastomeric rings.
Q: Why can’t the positioning strip be removed out of the box?
A: The positioning strip keeps the components aligned in the proper position to allow the tube to be easily inserted. Removing the positioning strip before the specified step in the installation guide, potentially complicates the sealing process.
Q: What is the purpose of the marking gauge and where can I find it?
A: The Marking Gauges are to provide guidance on the depth a valve or tube will need to be inserted into the fitting. As you are hand tightening and before wrench tightening, keep an eye on the marking gauge line marked on the valve and/or tube to ensure the fitting has not shifted out of place or the tube has not backed off. Marking Gauges are included inside each box.
Q: What is the QR code laser marked on the fitting?
A: The QR code will lead to an installation video.
Q: Can the fitting be taken apart prior to installation?
A: No. If the fitting is disassembled prior to installation, the warranty is voided. We cannot ensure that the fitting will be reassembled back correctly after it being disassembled. We have a strict and thorough manufacturing and quality assurance system in place to make sure all the components are positioned properly.
Q: What refrigerants are the fittings compatible with?
A: All refrigerants are compatible with SmartLock fitting. This is due to the metal-to-metal sealing technology.
Q: Does the SmartLock fittings require a torque wrench/torque specification?
A: No. SmartLock fittings do not require any special tools, even a torque wrench. It is specially designed so the installer will not have to worry about torque specification. As indicated in our installation guide, wrench tightening until there are no gaps are the main requirements in ensuring a tight seal. However, we do offer torque data for each model fitting and it can be found in our website www.smartlockfitting.com, under Resource tab.
Q: Is it possible to over torque the fitting and damage the ferrule?
A: No, we’ve designed the fittings so the outer nuts will push against each other and prevent damaging metal ferrules.
Q: Can the fitting be reused?
A: No, it is a single use item. When the wrench is tightened, the ferrule forms around the outer dimension (OD) of the tube and clamps down on the OD of the tube. Essentially, cold forming of the ferrule and tube is taking place. Cold formed joint is producing the metal-to metal seal.
Q: Since it is a single use product what happens when/if I need to move the equipment?
A: For Swage Union Fittings, we recommend unfastening the outer nut(s) which will reveal two metal ferrules: one on the swage valve and second on the tube. For the metal ferrule on the swage valve, cut closely on the left of the metal ferrule. Make sure to cut before the valve starts swaging out. For the metal ferrule on the tube, cut on the tube as closely as possible to the right of the ferrule to preserve as much tube length as possible. Then use a SmartLock Union Straight (UNST) coupling fitting to reconnect swage valve and tube.
For Flare Connector Fittings, unthread the entire flare fitting from the flare valve. Do not loosen the two nuts. Use the current flare fitting and rethread onto the new unit with flare valve. Hand tighten and wrench tighten the Flare Nut with a torque wrench to tighten the threads together to the manufacturer’s torque requirement.
For Coupling Fittings, cut tubes as closely to the fitting as possible. Use a new SmartLock coupling fitting to reconnect tube to tube.
Q: How do I know when the installation is complete? Or what indicates the seal has been made?
A: Wrench tighten until there are no gaps between the nuts.
Q: For fittings Swage Union fittings, why is it important to hold the middle nut and wrench tightent he left nut first?
A: Especially for Swage Union fittings (SWUN), the left nut must be wrenched and fastened first as it seals the swage valve and tube nut together. The right nut seals tube only. The left nut must be sealed first to ensure the correct placement of the fitting.
Q: For Flare Connector fittings, why do I only wrench tighten and fasten the tube nut only?
A: As the tube nut is fastened, it drives the flare nut and fastens it onto the flare valve. Do not place a wrench on the flare side nut as it will obstruct its ability to be fastened with the tube nut.
Q: For Flare Connector fittings, can I loosen the flare nut from the flare valve?
A: Yes, in the case where there needs to be a unit change out, it is possible to unthread the flare nut from the flare valve even while the metal ferrule on the tube nut side is sealed and connected.
Q: The 7/8” SmartLock fittings are hard to wrench the nuts together until there are no gaps. Any suggestions?
A: Keep in mind that it is normal to experience difficulty wrench tightening 7/8” fittings as it will require higher torque than smaller fittings. We suggest a longer handled wrenches and potentially another person to help while installing larger 7/8” fittings. It is still important to tighten until there are no gaps even for larger fittings.
Q: Do the nuts have to sit flush and neatly like they look like on the brochures and installation video?
A: No, it is not a requirement to tighten the nuts until they are flush. The most important thing is to tighten until there are absolutely no gaps between the nuts for a tight seal. When they the nuts are flush, it is easier to see the distance between nuts or if there are zero gaps.
Q: After having installed the fitting, there is a small leak! What went wrong?
A: When there is a leak, it typically means it has not been tightened fully. Wrench tighten the nut(s) more until the leaking stops.
Q: Can you use hard and soft copper tubes with SmartLock fittings?
A: Yes, absolutely. For additional information on the soft copper tube examples to avoid, go to our website www.smartlockfitting.com under Resource Tab > Soft Copper Tube.
Q: Can you use out of round tubes?
A: Yes. The condition of the tube does not have to be a perfectly round because the metal ferrules within SmartLock fittings conforms the tubes into the correct shape as it creates a seal.
Q: What if the tube is damaged or scratched near where the connection is going to be made?
A: SmartLock fittings can accept some minor scratches, but recommends a clean, undamaged surface to ensure a proper installation and seal.
Q: Do I need to deburr?
A: No. Even if tube ends are sharp, it will not damage the metal ferrule. However, we still believe deburring will be a good practice to continue even while using SmartLock fittings to ensure the tube is clean and in best condition.
Q: Can SmartLock fittings be used with copper on one side and aluminum on the other side?
A: Yes, absolutely! Standard SmartLock fittings are designed to connect Copper to Copper, Aluminum to Aluminum, and Copper to Aluminum tubing. For example, SmartLock fittings eliminates the need to braze copper to aluminum coils.
Q: What about dissimilar metal issues?
A: SmartLock fitting does not have any issues with dissimilar metals. Material selection and specialized manufacturing processes have been designed and chosen to prevent cathodic type reactions.
Q: What is the fitting material?
A: It is anodized aluminum and proprietary material for the ferrule.
Q: How close can you braze to a SmartLock fitting if there is a requirement to braze close to it?
A: We cannot specify how close or how far away an installer needs to be if they choose to braze near a SmartLock fitting. We recommend that the installer to use the same care if they were to braze near a service valve, such as using a cooling blanket to keep the temperature down as much as possible on the fitting.